Jeff does Cape Horn
Subject: Cape Horn Adventure days 1-3 Date: 14 Dec 2008 14:14:00 -0000
Stats:Day#1=122N.M.made good. Weather:Sunny and clear. Wind S. at 8-12kts.Seas 2ft. Cabin Temp at noon 75*F. Barometer-1016MB.Course 230 True.
Stats:Day#2-137N.M.made good. Weather:Sunny and clear. Wind SSE.at 10-15kts.Seas 3ft. Cabin Temp at noon 75*F. Barometer-1019MB.Course 217 True.
Stats:Day#3-143N.M.made good. Weather:Sunny and clear .Wind SSE.at 10-18kts.Seas 3-4FT.Cabin Temp at noon76*.Barometer-1020MB.Course 200 True.
3-Day total miles run:402 Current Position=Lat.16*54'S Long81*24'W
Important Note".Thank you all for you emails they are all very much appreciated. Please do not push reply when responding to adventure as it sends the whole adventure back to me and since my email is a radio link it takes up much of my allotted time. Thanks for watching that.
I'm sending the following estimated positions and dates so that you might follow along on a map if so desired and kind of see how I'm doing.
Depart Callao, Peru 11/12/08-0600-Lat.12*03'S Long.77*07'W.
14/12/08 lat.16*54'S Long.80*36W.
17/12/08 lat.20*54'S Long.82*11'W.
20/12/08 lat.26*32'S Long.84*28'W.
23/12/08 lat.32*15'S Long.86*29'W.
26/12/08 lat.38*02'S long.88*33'W.
29/12/08 lat.43*46'S Long.88*57'W.
1/01/08 Lat.49*17'S Long.85*30'W.
4/01/08 Lat.53*25'S Long.79*17'W.
7/01/08 Lat.56*12'S Long.70*04'W.
10/01/08 Lat.55*22'S Long.82*56'W.
13/01/08 Lat.50*48'S Long.56*19'W.
16/01/08 Lat.44*47'S Long.55*51'W.
19/01/08 Lat.38*46'S Long.55*44'W.
22/01/08 Lat.34*36'S Long.58*16'W.Buenos Aires,Argentina
Cape Horn The Rest Of The Story:
Day one really started about 5am with me on deck pulling sail covers off and running sheet lines through the blocks on deck. It was then that I realized that this was another one of those fantastic days,yes I had that old feeling that raced trough my body 39 years ago and every time since that I was ready to embark on a sailing adventure. The feeling is one of escape from the grind of civilization and the laws that tend to bind one there. Yes now I would be free to live or die under the laws of nature,on what is to be my biggest adventure ever.
December 11th 2008 at 0600 I sailed clear of the mooring on what appeared to be another light air day so typical of Callao, Peru. Callao the biggest pacific port in South America sees nearly 20 ships a day and it would be no different today. I was sailing slowly out of the bay when a 500ft. ship appears from around a local Island coming in from the south. Suddenly the peaceful departure becomes a challenge as the ship has decided to alter course on to my position. Well so much for sailing out of here. I start the diesel and go hard to starboard motoring clear of the premature end to this adventure. Now with that behind me I motor sail off shore for about 4 hours wanting to reach fresher winds and soon they fill in and we are off; sun shining and the water rushing by the hull as we establish our routine going to weather on the port tack.
I pull up my email on the computer that comes via single side band radio and suddenly realize what a great bunch of family friends and acquaintances that Debbie and I have come to know over the years. The well wishes are greatly appreciated and a spot is warmed in my heart as I read each one of them.
You must not wonder even for a minute if my wife Debbie will be missed on this passage as it is already way to evident to me. Nothing gets done unless I do it and there is no one to share things with or give immediate support when needed. I know in her heart she wishes she were here to share in the experience but at the same time she knows that this passage will be a cold and often times miserable one and that she doesn't need or want. My non stop route from here to Buenos Aires is also my route non stop to once again be with Debbie.
I should tell you "Sailors Run" Is a Baba Ketch 40ft. on deck and carries 150 gallons of water in two tanks. She also has 80 gallons of diesel fuel aboard and 20 gallons of gas for a 2KW Honda Generator. The electrical storage system is 8-6V Golf Cart Batteries making a combined bank of 880 amp hrs. Now the green part of the boat is an Air X 400 watt wind generator and two 55 watt Siemens solar panels.I think I have brought too much gas as it has only been necessary to run the generator one hour over the first three days.
The sailing these first 3-days has been ideal sunny and warm with winds just enough to keep us sailing at a respectable speed under full sail genoa,staysail,main and reefed mizzen. The Mizzen is always reefed when going to wether in all but the lightest of winds as it needs to set tighter and flatter then the main. I do believe that sailing to weather is the best point of sail in winds under 15 kts and that is what I have been experiencing.
My biggest problem these first three days was steering clear of hundreds of Fishing boats and long liners that fish these coastal waters of Peru. It wasn't until 180 miles off shore could I relax my vigilant watch. Sailing solo creates a watch problem as you know I must sleep sometime and I have been working on a 20 minute sleep with a quick look about then back to sleep;not sure that is working. Oh well let you know next time my new approach.
Thus far the trip has been a lark,pretty huch sailing the course with fair speed,sunny 75* weather. I have seen three consecutive green flashes as the sun dropped over the horizon, each one being more spectacular then the last and a full or nearly full moon to light my way by night. This seems almost to good to be true,Hmmmm,Hmmmmm.???????.
Bounding along to the Horn Your Amigo Jeff S/V "Sailors Run".
Cape Horn Adventure Days 4,5,6.
Day#4=135 N.M.made good.Weather:partly cloudy Wind SSE 8-14 kts.Seas 3ft.Cabin temp.74* Barometer 1020MB. Course 201* True.
Day#5=135 N.M made good.Weather:Partly cloudy Wind SSE 8-14kts.Seas 3ft.Cabin Temp 75*.Barometer 1020MB. Course 213* True.
Day#6=136 N.M.made good.Weather:Micro sytems"Squals etc"Wind SSE 8-22 kts Seas 4 Ft.Cabin temp75 Bar.1020MB corse 193*True.
Total 3-day run 406 N.M. Current Position 12/17/08 Time 0600 Lat.22*39'S.Long.84*42'W.
The Rest OF The Story.
The seas have turned from a turbid brownish green to a fantastic cobalt blue as I sail hard on the wind deeper into the Southern Pacific Ocean. My biggest problem for now seems one of keeping a good watch and getting enough sleep. That may have been resolved for the time being. My initial idea of getting up every 20 minutes for a look around was not only allot of work but to much time was spent getting back to sleep. My current solution for where I am and the conditions is stay up all day and at night set up a 15 mile guard zone around the boat on the radar and have the watchman feature check that area every 10 minutes for ships. If one is detected then the alarm on the radar goes off until I clear the problem. Now I go to bed and when I wake up for what ever reason usually about every 2-hours I have a look top sides then back in the rack.
"Sailors Run" has a monitor wind vane mounted on the stern that steers the boat relative to the wind thus keeping the boat moving fast and generally in the right direction."Sailors Run" also has a below decks auto pilot an Alpha electric linear drive that will do the steering under power or in light winds when the monitor becomes ineffective usually under 7kts. They both steer well in a gale. These two pieces of equipment along with the radar help to make solo sailing safe and enjoyable. Our daily runs have been good so far and no engine hours have been used since getting clear of Callao,Peru.
The night of the 6th day became very strange. I was awakened at 2 AM by an unfamiliar smoothness to the ride on "Sailors Run".Stumbling out of my berth half asleep I glanced first at the radar and seen that yes the boat had slowed down to 3.7Kts. I climbed out into the cockpit and looked at the Hawk at the top of the mast and it indicated that yes we were still sailing close hulled .Next I eyed the GPS and low and behold we are sailing over 100 degrees off course now going NW."Holy Shit" I wonder how long we been doing that.At that point it looked as if I tacked we would be back on course.I start my tack and just as I'm in the middle of the tack with both sheets loose a micro twisting win wraps my genoa around the forestay about 5 times. I mean this thing is a freak en mess. I try pulling the sheets but they are wrapped up in this nightmare and wont budge. I start the motor and try driving the boat in circles thinking that might unwrap it;"No Luck".I harness up and try standing on the bow pulpit to get this mess unwrapped but still can't reach high enough. Now I'm getting worried as if the wind intensifies my Genoa could be flogged to death. Maybe I finally wake up enough and realize if I bring both sheets forward and unwrap each one now coiled into a bundle this mess might just go away and it does. "Thank God".
The winds were fickle for about another hour before the prevailing trades filled back in and "Sailors Run" was once again pounding to weather. I guess it is time for me to start earning my keep as it has been pretty easy so far. I was reminded the other day by my daughter "Ginger" why I'm out here doing what I'm doing. She said "Dad do you remember when we were little kids growing up and we would go in the downstairs bathroom and there on the mirror We would see scribbled in soap, Hawaii 1978 and the World 1982". I had to laugh because I had forgotten about those goals,but she hadn't and she said that's why I can except what you are doing as it has always been your life long dream to cruise the World and rightfully so you are doing it. I was late getting out here to live my dream but I have to admit its everything I hopped it would be way back then. The dream has gotten me through a lot of tough times and made facing each day a little easier.
Your Amigo Jeff
Cape Horn Adventure Days 7-8-9
Stats:Day#7=153 NM.made Good. Weather hot,Sunny.Wind SE 12-20kts.4-6ft.seas Cabin Temp.76*.Barometer 1022MB.Corse=165*True.
Stats:Day#8=110 NM.made good.weather warm partly cloudy.Wind SSE. 0-10kts.2ft.seas.Cabin Temp.76*.Barometer 1024.Course 242*True.
Stats:Day#9=110 NM.made good.Weather hot,sunny.Wind SSW 0-15kts seas SSW3ft.Cabin Temp.84* Barometer falling 1019Mb cOURSE 146*tRUE
Total miles run for 3-days=373 Current position:Lat27*56'S Long.86*03W.
The Rest of the story.
The Past three days have been "exhilarating","Magical",and "Frustrating at times".It was bound to happen the winds would slacken as we pick our way through these convoluted highs. not really in any big hurry anyway so I just put about taking care Of several small projects yet to be done before things get "Kick en" out here. The solar panels and their mounts were taken off the stern rails and stowed below. The forward hatch was strapped down and the one fuel Jug on deck had its contents distributed around and stowed below decks.
The 7th day our best mileage day so far on this passage was very "exhilarating" seeing speeds of 7.6 kts. to weather while jumping of 6ft waves into the trough of the next following wave."Bashing to weather I believe it is called".
The evening of the 8th day was "Magical" as the heavens appeared as a "Bowl of Diamonds" that loomed over head for the taking.
Day 9 tested my sailing skills as airs became fluky to non existent at Times. I motored for about 4hrs just to keep heading the right direction in glassy seas. I'm sure some of you might be a little curious what I do about getting weather info out here. You no doubt have heard of weather routers. I don't have one. Maybe my best friend is a "Meteorologist";I'm not that fortunate.
I shall share an experience I had about 4-5 years ago while in Western Samoa.Debbie and I met this great Kiwi family knowles, Latara and Seina.One day I was talking to Knowels and he was saying he and his family would soon be leaving for New Zealand direct; a long voyage of several thousand miles. The family had twice circumnavigated the world on different wood boats Knowles had built. His current boat named Sina was a 50ft sloop. When I asked him when will you go he says on the 15th about a week from now. I questioned him about the weather; like are you looking for a good weather window. He just looked at me real funny and laughed. He also said if you can't handle what's out there you shouldn't go.
That pretty much some's up my thinking on weather with the exception of I like to pick the first day as that one you have a choice on. Don't get me wrong I do track severe weather and do my best to stay out of harms way. The way I do this is weather fax from a local station in the area I'm cruising;right Now that is a station in Chili.I watch the 1000MB presure charts ,The wind velocity charts,and occasional the satellite pictures as that lets me see where the heavy rains are. Along with all of this I receive Grib files through sailmail that gives you a second opinion of what my lay along your intended course. The biggest waste of time is to much weather as soon nothing agrees with any thing. I just keep it simple and deal with it.
Your Amigo just living it up in the hand that have been dealt.
Jeff
Cape Horn Adventure Days 10-11-12.
Stats Day #10=118 NM.made good.Weather partly coudy.Wind 10-25+SSE.Seas 8-10ft.from S.Cabin Temp.74*Barometer 1028 and Rising.
Stats Day#11=139 NM.made good.Weather mostly sunny.Wind 15-22ktsSE.Seas 8-10ft.From S.Cabin Temp.74*Barometer 1030 and steady.
Stats Day#12=123 NM.made good.Weather partly cloudy.Wind 6-15kts.SSE to S.Seas 4-6ft.From S.Cabin Temp 68-74*Barometer 1030 and steady.
Current position 12/23/08 Lat.32*S 45'S.Long.89* 42'W. Total miles Run last 3-days Estimated Day of Arrival at Cape Horn 01/5/2009??????
The Rest Of The Story.
Day #10 started great the winds filled in and soon "Sailors Run" was romping along to weather at 6.7Kts.I just prayed the wind would hold. Hold it did and strengthened to. I tied the second reef in the main and rolled the Genoa half way in. After about one hour we were once again over powered so decided on rolling the Genoa in another 25%. That was when this sailing day turned ugly. The Genoa would come in no further; turns out there was a back lash on the furler drum. I'm thinking that's not good. Obviously someone had let the sail out with out maintaining some tension on furler line. Now I began to suspect possibly "I screwed up".Oh well whose to complain I'll just fix it. After no less then 20 trips back and forth to the bow and some of them rather slow as I'm once again threading the roller furler line back through the bullet eyes on deck. All the time crawling tethered to a wildly pitching deck with occasional deck loads of water helping to propel me back towards the cockpit. You must realize that at one point I'm setting out on the bow plat form, 25+kts of wind in my face and 10ft. seas causing me to be pitching up and down 15ft. at times and that's only if you don't count how far I was submerged on several occasions. One and one half hours passes as I locked the furler drum with a pin and "sloooowly" unwrapped the entire 80 to 100ft. of line off the drum. All the time keeping the knots out of it and trying to keep it in my possession so it doesn't slip over the side and get wrapped around the free wheeling prop on sailors run.
The total mess takes nearly 3 hours to clear up I'm half frozen as the chill factor has been gnawing away on me and all I can think about is I'm still in the warm part of my trip. No we don't want to do this off "Cape Horn"! A hot shower warm dry clothes and some hot coffee and I'm ready to go to bed. Oh its only 4pm so I make dinner instead.
Day#11 was just great sailing.
Day #12 The winds began to lighten as I'm once again picking my way through the eastern edge of a high.The late afternoon was very rewarding as I hooked up and landed a 40lb. "Big Eye Tuna".I now have a freezer that is brimming full and 5-nice big "Filet"that must be eaten over the next 3-days."Fish anyone".
Managing the risks at sea is a big part of off shore cruising. I realized that for this trip I needed a plan-B encase something were to take out all my electronics; like water,lightning,etc. I first figured worst case how long the trip might take "48-days"My good friends Thor and Tonja off the catamaran "Mi Shack" figured "42-days".Of course me being all optimistic figured "38-days". So I planed for the worst case and bought two "cases of beer" that gave me "48 beers" and I would drink just one a day and when they would all be gone I would surely be there worst case scenario. well once again I had screwed up as I drank four before I left. Being quick witted like I'am, I just adjusted worse case scenario to "44-Days". Now as long as I don't screw up again, I will be most motivated to get there in no less than "44-days" and if it turns out I'm right and arrive in "38-days".I will then have six "beers" to party with.
"Sailing on the strait and narrow".
"Merry Christmas"
Your Amigo Jeff
Cape Horn Adventure days-13-14-15
Stats:Day 13=97NM.made good.Weather:mostly overcast.Wind southerly 5-10kts.Seas:swell from the south at6-8ft.Cabin Temp.68-78*.Barometer 1030mb and steady
Stats:Day 14=97NM.made good.Weather:partly sunny.Wind SE 0-10kts.Seas:Swell from S at 6-8ft. Cabin Temp.68-74*Barometer 1032mb up-2mb.
Stats:Day 15=95NM.made good.Weather:Sunny.Wind SW 0-14kts.Seas:from SW 4-6ft..Cabin Temp.68-74*Barometer 1030mb down-2mb.
Total 3-day Run=289NM. Current Position=0600 Lima,Time:Lat.36*29'S Long.90*42*W Aprox.Distance left to go to "Horn" 1600 NM. ETA Cape Horn 1/5/09
"The Rest of the Story"
The past three days have been spent once again trying to find enough wind to keep Sailors Run moving towards the Horn. On several occasions I was forced to motor as the speed either dropped below 2-kts. or the seas just plain glassed of and there was no wind. The High pressure system has dropped a little south keeping me within its grasp."Why Me"?
Christmas has come and gone and both days were pretty sad for me as I miss Debbie,Family and Friends. Debbie however had a gift hidden onboard and I found it. It was a special CD that she had made up with many of our favorite songs on it. That was great but not sure it made me feel any better as it reminded me of us. Thanks any way "Babe". I have ran out of lettuce and now must switch to cabbage for salads. Still have lots of tomatoes,cucumbers, apples, oranges,potatoes and onions. It looks as if I will be down to eating like the old time sailors before this trip is over. "Onions for Apples"??? On Christmas Eve I had a very large Albatross cruising the seas in my area and was truly amazed with the effortless flight of that huge bird with a 9' wing span.
I'm anxiously awaiting the westerlies to come calling so I can get "Sailors Run" Reaching for The Horn.
On Christmas Day eve Santa brought me a most special gift. Winds that started filling in from the SSW and now we are headed for the "Horn" gradually building up speed. It has been just over two weeks since departing Lima,Peru and 99% of that time has been spent on the port tack. Now I have flopped over to Starboard tack and maybe the right leg will get shorter while the left stretches out once again.
I know this is the wind that will drive me down there because of all the strange things I'm doing and thinking about. Like putting my passport and credit cards in the ditch bag and an extra "candy bar" just for good measure. I find myself questioning the logic in a solo sailor sailing in cold waters wearing a life vest???The way I look at it a harness and tether makes good sense but if I ever were to go over the side unattached the last thing I would want is a life vest deploying as I make my last few frantic strokes to grab the wind vane hanging off the stern of the old "Sailors Run".After careful deliberation on this I have decided yes I will where the suspenders life vest and harness as it has to be manually deployed to inflate and surely hypothermia is a much less traumatic way to die than drowning.
Just trying to get there your Amigo
Jeff
Cape Horn Adventure Days-16-17-18.
Stats:Day#16=139NM. Weather Foggy most of the day.Wind SSE at 12-14kts.Seas 6-8ft.SW.Cabin Temp64*-73*Barometer 1026mb.down-4mb.
Stats:Day#17=115NM.Weather:sunny.Wind SSE 6-14kts.Seas 6-8ft SW.Cabin Temp.64*-72*.Barometer 1030MB. up 4MB.
Atats:Day#18=98NM.Weather:sunny.Wind WNW 5-10kts.Seas 6-8ft. SW.Cabin Temp.64-74*.Barometer 1030MB and steady.
Total miles for 3-Days=352NM. Current Position 0600 Lima Time.12/29/08 Lat.41*31'S Long.90*14'W. ETA "Cape Horn" 1/6/09
The rest of the story.
The westerly's that I thought were filling in never happened. Instead high #3 so filled in around me once again; so I'm twinking and tacking just trying to get south where I'm hopping there will be more wind. Currently getting lots of rest and reading lots of Novels. The 16th.day was very foggy and ran radar all day also got things pretty wet like my socks so I'm dreading when it is blowing rain and sleet and dry close become a premium not to mention a dry boat below decks. I have been doing a little research into this all too familiar problem when transuding cooler wet climates.
I know from past exsperiance that some times and "Old Indian Trick" works best. Yes just like when My family and I built a hand hewn log home. We decided the best thing would to be right there on the job site all the time. So we bought an old 20'x40'Army tent to live in. There was my now Ex wife and seven kids to house. The tent was old and I feared it would leak. Luckily for me I had bought it from and Indian[Native American].He said no worry about leaks here is what you do. Spread the tent out flat on ground,poor 5-gallons gasoline in a large bucket then boil 10 blocks of paraffin wax. Once boiling poor into 5-gallons of gas. Now let me tell you this concoction foams and boils and does everything but explode. Then all I had to do was take a mop and liberally apply gasoline with paraffin to the entire external surface of the tent. Yes I realized one spark and it was all over for me and the kids were smart enough to back off several 100ft. You know that tent nor my tenis shoes didn't leak for several months of hard rain and snow;unfortunately when it did it was onto our color TV that blew up. Yes the gasoline idea worked and after several days even the smell had gone away.
So I'm thinking I have heard of this Tribe of Indians at the southern tip of South America called the Selk'nam Indians that live down there in that freezing wet weather and wear no clothes. Once again the old Indian Trick may be the solution. What they do is cover there body with grease and that protects them. As the wind can't get through and there water proof and no wet cloths to drag below all the time. Oh yea there might be a few problems with this "slick" idea like putting all the boat cushions in garbage bags but that is a small price to pay for being able to slip in and out of your bunk with ease when you must make sail reductions in the middle of a squall. Don't worry I'm sure I have almost figured this all out. Not sure how this might impact the price of the video of this passage nor the rating either?
Day 17 was sunny and nice.
Day 18 I sailed with Spinnaker main and mizzen in wnw winds that were very light;this day was my most pleasant day yet and was able to carry the Spinnaker through the night.
Sailing along under Spinnaker in the "roaring- snoring 40s".
Cape Horn Adventure Days-19-20-21
Stats:Day#19=119NM.Weather:Partly cloudy Wind:WNW 10kts becoming south overnight 10-12kts.Seas:6-8"SW Cabin Temp.60*-68*.Bar.-1032MB.up-2MB.CR:232*True.
Stats:Day#20=87NM.Weather:Cloudy&Cooler.Wind:Wind:S.8-10kts then-0 for 16hrs.Seas:6-8ft.SW.Cabin Temp59*-68*.Bar.1034MB up-2MB.Cr.156*True.
Stats:Day#21=99NM.Weather:Deteriorating.Wind:WNW-20kts and increasing.Seas confused 8-10ft.SW&WNW.Cabin Temp.59-68*.Bar.1027MB.Down-7MB.Cr.175*Tr.
Distance traveled for 3-days=305NM. Current Pos:0600 Lima Time:Lat.45*35'S.Long88*57'W. Distance to go to Cape Horn=1070 NM. ETA Cape Horn 1/7/2009 I'm changing it once again????
The Rest Of The Story
Day 19 was basically a slow sailing day speed never exceeding 5-kts.Day 19 saw me tacking back and forth in shifting head winds from the south early on
Day-20 was a real bust where for 19 hrs I splashed up the diesel on a glassy SW 6ft.swell. Now this is at 44* South.
Day 21 was different and more pleasant as I was under spinnaker and Genoa wing on wing as the winds built to 20+Kts. from the NW.I mean its coming "Hold On" Currently sailing broad reach with one reef in main and staysail up reefed doing 6kts.and wind vane steering,wind generator making all needed electricity.Honda Generator is secured below decks as water is starting to go everywhere.
The temperature is slowly dropping and I now where polypropylene longies under my normal sweats T-shirt and sweat shirt. Two pairs of socks feel just right now. The roaring Forty's are now waking up; and as I write this things are starting to bust loose and I'm pretty sure the next three days will be large mile days.
I'm now out of Oranges.
I recently received an email from Bruce Swab a former around alone racer; whom Debbie and I had met in New Zealand back in 2003. He says that it looks like by the 3rd of January it is going to be snorting 35kts.+ and should give me one hell of a kick ass ride,and on the 5th a nasty looking fast moving low will be in my neighbor hood.Its tracking ENE and I'm trying to get south of it. He also said best advise turn around now.HA HA.
Bruce went on to say that in about two days the first of the Vendee' Globe Racers should go blasting by me. Hey I will try and hold my own but those guys surf up to 35Kts in this wild stuff. Actually my main goal will to stay well clear of these guys as there are about 18 of them left out of the original 30 that started the race and I might just see a couple of them if I'm up.I just heard one of the Venee' Gobe guys hit ice at 46* south and tore one of his rudders of and is out of the race.I'm spending more time top side watching for ice.Of course at night I use just plane "good luck".I'm much busier now and will have less time for emailing but love getting your emails.
Now I must tell ya there was more to this plan to sail around cape horn then just "drink beer everyday".I'm actually looking for "Happy Feet"No not the little dancer in Bahia Caraques that goes by the name of Jack Stills.I'm talking about the most famous "Penguin of all; that resides most of the year in Antarctica. I have it on good authority that "Happy Feet" can often be seen down in the Cape Horn area. He generally buses around on the local bus system with a bunch of his "groupie" friends, during the summer months. Yes I'm not kidding he rides the Antarctic Express Bus, an "Ice Berg". Penguins have ridden these buses as far north as Peru and they even think that is how they came to be in the Galapagos Islands many years ago.
Just know my camera is fully charged and I will be out there trying to get a picture of "Happy Feet" and his buddies doing the Antarctic "Bugaloo".
Trying to put the hammer Down.
"Happy New Year"
Your Amigo Jeff
Cape Horn Adventure-Days-22-23-24. Part-1
Stats:Day-22=132NM.Weather:"whoop Ass"weather:Wind:WNW-SW.20-45KTS.Seas-10-20ft.confused.Bar.1020mb.Down-7mb.Cabin Temp.54-59*.Cr.150T.
Stats:Day-23=123NM.Weather:"Rough".Wind:20-30+Kts.WNW-SW.Seas Confused-10-18ft.Bar.1008mb.Down-12mb.Cabin Temp.54-58* Cr.153*Tr.
Stats:Day-24=143NM.Weather:"Dangerous:Wind20-35Kts.Wnw-W.Seas:Breaking-18-25ft.Bar.1004mb.Down-4mb.Cabin Temp.50*-54*Cr.126*Tr.
Total 3-Day run=398 NM. distance to Cape Horn=700 NM. Current Position 0600 Lima Time:Lat.51*14'S.Long.85*12'W. Eta Cape Horn=1/9/09?????? I changed it again.
The Rest Of The Story.Part-1
Day#22 One to remember. The day began with 20kt winds from wnw building to 30kts. WNW. You must consider wind strengths are measured an deck level with hand held anemometer. I was sailing along nicely with two reefs in main and reefed staysail. At about 2pm I was whacked by first front on approaching low;winds changed direction to SW.at 45Kts. Now I;m over powered and must pull main down.Not an easy task in 18-20ft seas.I put the wind on the beam and can just barely tug that thing down.Once back in the cockpit I realize that a large wave that had kicked the stern around on "Sailors Run" had also caused the steering line on monitor wind vane to rip metal eye off of servo rudder. Now In Gale force conditions I turn the helm over to the Alpha below decks auto pilot and it handles driving the boat just fine.
With just a reefed staysail up we are doing 6+kts. The seas build to a pretty consistent 20ft and "Sailors Run" does well taking them on the starboard quarter. At times I must alter course to stay pretty much down wind so we don't take waves on the beam as at times Sailors Run is being submerged on the port side in the trof by steep beam waves forcing us down and keeping the decks awash. After the front passes 4hrs later, things settle back to around 22 kts.
Day#23. Winds are 20kts and I'm amazed at the sea conditions I have read about "Hay Stack Sea" but now I see them first hand.The seas are so cofused that there is no wave pattern but in stead these 18-20ft moguels[Hay Stacks} runing about all over the place.They are not steep enough to be of any great danger but have a way of tipping and rocking the "Sailors Run" real good. The winds soon build to 30kts.Im getting concerned as the first storm of the summer has developed not to far SW of me and I'm heading into it. The barometer is plunging down dropping 12MB.in 24hrs.My weather fax shows yet another front crossing over me in the next 8 hrs. I'm reading the Vendee Globe racers weather and the front 5 boats are expected to receive this same weather and winds are expected to be gusting 65kts. and seas to 9-meters[30ft.]The pucker factor is running high. I drop the main as it is now blowing 30+kts. I say drop the main but by now I,m sur you realize this is an ordeal taking close to one hour.
Well I do a few other things like hang off the stern of Sailors Run by my toes and make a jury rig repair on Monitor wind vane some times submerging my arms in some real cold water.The repair needs refinement but would work for awhile in a pinch. If the weather abates I can make a better fix. I also roll up bimminey cover and lash it down as it barely survived the 45 kts. Darkness comes about 11pm here daylight is at 3:30am.long days Thank God.
Crashing bouncy rolling along at 6+kts under reefed staysail I have a pretty good night. The front was occluded on a portion of it and so all I got was the rain and a slight wind shift to SW.with very little increase in velocity.
There is another rapidly developing fast moving low headed my way. I'm forced to sail nearly do south to avoid the worst section of this low. Trying to get below it hopping it moves do east and not SE where it would end up right on me.
To be Continued Jeff
Cape Horn Adventure days-22-23-24. Part-2
Now I know this is not every buddies "Milk Shake" but it is obviously what you must do to sail around the "Horn". It has been 20-days since last seeing another vessel out here. That could soon change as the Vendee Globe single handers are now in my area. Boats one-Fonica and two-Veolia have passed safely to the south of me but the remainder of the dwindling 30 boat fleet now down to 15 will be coming by.
I'm amazed at the Number of sea birds that are showing up. I recognize the giant Albatross but the smaller ones I haven't a clue.
I'm a little frustrated that I can't go faster but since I must stay so directly down wind to get south it turns out that my point of sail is a slow one.
Day#24 is my third day in a row of heavy winds.The seas build rapidly as winds strengthen to 35kts.By noon seas are in excess of 20ft.and there are white beards everywhere as the tops of the waves break and cascade down the face. Sailing conditions have become "dangerous" and now I must keep "Sailors Run" on a very broad reach under reefed staysail alone. So that the waves hit me on the stern of the boat.
At times like this there is just three things you must do "Stay on top of it","Stay on top of it",and "Stay on top of it".Boat speed needs to stay below 7kts. so we don't broach and get rolled 360*.Yes I see 9-kts but rarely. Fortunately today I do not have cross seas to contend with as the wind and waves are both coming from the west. The auto pilot steers well if boat speed is kept down around 7kts. The other problem with these conditions is that I'm very limited as to where I can safely steer the boat;I'm pretty much locked into going 40 degrees one side or the other of dead down wind.
Should conditions deteriorate further;I will go bear poles and drag a drogue. If that isn't enough to keep the boat slowed or waves become to great then my Sea Anchor is the last option available. The forecast for next couple of days looks to be improvement. Winds down to 20-25kts and seas down to 15ft.
I'm eating well and getting good rest.It is realy cold as humidity must be 95%+ and the chill factor means little time as possible spent on deck.
Crashing Along under reefed Staysail alone; Your Amigo Jeff.
"Cape Horn Adventure Days-25-26-27"
Stats:Day-25=149NM.Weather:Partly Cloudy;Wind WNW. 20-25kts.Seas:15-18ft.Cabin Temp.47*-56*Bar.1006mb.up 2mb.Cr.114* Tr.
Stats:Day-26=136 NM.Weather:Squally;WindWNW.-SW.35Kts,gusting 50kts.Seas: 20+ft.Cabin Temp.47*-49*.Bar.1004mb down 2mb.Cr.100*TR.
Stats:Day-27=140NM.Weather:Squally;WindWNW-WSW.25-35kts.Seas 15-18ft.Temp.48-53*.Bar.1014mb. up 10mb. Cr.120*Tr.
Total 3 day run=425 NM. Distance left to "Horn"=370 NM. ETA. Cape Horn 1/9/09 I'm changing it again???? Current Position 1/7/09 0600 Lima Time-Lat.54*35'S Long.75*09'W
"The Rest Of The Story"
Day 25 was great sailing seas were organized making for comfortable ride.
I want to take a moment and thank my energetic and loving wife Debbie for all she has done and is doing to help this dream become reality. Debbie is the one that forwards me not only the Vendee Globe boat positions,as well as a wealth of weather info,but she gives great encouragement and try's to keep my spirits up. Debbie is in this with me "Knee Deep" I truly love her for all that she is.Thanks," Babe your the best".
On a boat you become familiar with all the little noises vibrations and movements that it makes. I noticed a new noise and it was kind of a low clanking sound. It turns out that it is coming from the ram on the electric auto pilot. The problem gets more complicated as that ram is very hard to get at.I give it a visual and can just get my hand to it and it seems to be still well attached to the mounting bracket, that is intern well attached to the boat. It seems there is one large bolt and rubber mount that the ram rotates on and for what ever reason there is a little slop there.
For now Sailors Run is being steered by the jury rigged wind vane which is doing better then expected and I will wait for more settled conditions to get at Auto pilot ram. It still steers fine if needed.
Day 26 weather turned ugly as I'm overtaken by low #3. The front brings cold 35kt. winds from SW with many squalls with winds gusting to 50Kts.Once again I'm down to reefed staysail and barely staying under 7-kts. With the wind shift the seas become confused and the ride pretty rough.
It was at 11:50pm. When I awoke to a thunderous crash as what must have been a huge wave washed over Sailors Run. I was thrown up against my lee cloth in my bunk and heard things move that hadn't ever moved before. I stumble from my bunk to get a lite on and realized that My feet are getting all wet. I look and there is salt water all over the setee cushions and table. Now sea water is like blood it looks like way more than it realy is. I probably had two quarts of water that had been forced under my butterfly hatch. It takes about thirty minutes and the mess is pretty well taken care of and precautions are taken to protect against a recurrence.
Once up in the cock pit I'm shocked to see my GPS gone,well from site anyway as it had been torn from its bracket and stuffed face down in the side of the dodger. Its power cord led me right to it. It was undamaged and gets to carry on like the rest of us "lucky suckers" on this adventure. Looking at the sea state it looks fine of course the night is as black as "coal" and can't see anything.
Day-27 starts out a little wild as I'm tossed across the Galley into the Ship Mate cook stove; that has stainless fiddles for holding pots on top of it for when your cooking in a sea way. What ever the pounds per square inch were when my hand hit the rather sharp edge of one of these as I tried to stop short of exiting out through the hull on port side of Sailors Run;was to much for my now pretty calloused hands to handle. Damn that hurts;luckily it only peeled the callous of and a little bit of liquid band aid got my hand usable once again.
You might have heard that the third placed boat in the Vendee globe race capsized 200 miles this side of cape horn,when his weighted bulb broke off the keel. The rescue was dramatic taking many hours and with a large ship hove to providing a lee the forth place boat went to his rescue and picked him up. He was in a survival suite and stayed in the overturned boat until fellow competitor arrived and hollered thru open hull fitting that trapped sailor had shoved a flag out of. Un fortunately the 4th place boat was damaged during rescue and is limping on with rescued sailor aboard.
Low #4 will be arriving on the 28th day. It will probably be my worst weather of the trip as I'm going to get the brunt of it it would appear. The low will be on me for about two days and be leaving me as I pass Cape Horn.
For those of you[Paul] that are wondering what next after cape horn;it is about 450 miles to the SE corner of the Falkland Islands then do north 1000 miles to Buenos Aires and WARMTH,REST and "Mas Cervesa".
Manning battle stations your Amigo Jeff
Cape Horn Adventure Days;28-29-30
Stats:Day-28=126NM.Weather:"Shity"Wind:25-50kts.NW-W.Cabin Temp-51*-54*Barometer 1006mb Down-6mb.Cr.130*Tr.
Stats:Day-29=127 NM.Weather:Partly cloudy;squals.Wind:10-25kts.West.Temp 47*-51*Barometer:1005mb. down-1mb.Cr.96*Tr.
Stats :Day-30=101 NM.Weather:Cloudy Winds 0-35kts. Seas 10-15ft.Temp.51*-52*Barometer:1002mb.down-3mb.Cr.70*Tr.
Total 3-day run=354 NM Arrived at cape horn. 1/9/09 2120 UTC Total distance sailed to Cape Horn=3,582NM.
The Rest Of The Story.
Day 28 turned out to be a very hard day. It started out when I first went top side in the am to hoist the Mizzen I realized that the halyard clevis had come unscrewed and was wrapped around a lower stay;oh great I can reach it. Wow wait a minute it is also wrapped around the wind generator;Hmmmmmm.I get the clevis back on mizzen and hoist the sail,but when I turn on wind the generator there is a strong vibration. Yes you probably guessed the halyard had broken the end of one blade off. Luckily I have spares but its not going up any time soon;need flatter water.
The rest of the day was good sailing in a nice 25 kt breeze. At about 10 pm the wind comes up to a howling 50kts.I get the mizzen down and we are boiling along at 7+knots under reefed staysail. Suddenly I notice the boat has slowed we are doing about 5 kts. I look out a forward port light and see the jib laying over the bow of the boat obviously the halyard has let go.
Once up on deck I see yes the halyard shackle one of those that has a spring pin in it has let go and is now waving around 3/4 of the way up the mast. Now I'm doing just under 5kts bear poles. I decide to pull out about 6ft of the Genoa on the furler. Bam we take off and are back up to 7-knots.At this point all seems well. The seas fortunately were not large when this wind started but after 5 hours Sailors Run was being pummeled by breaking waves about every fifteen minutes. Some water was coming through louvered doors on stern companion way. The wind backed around more to the west so I had to jibe the boat onto the other tack; to sail the course and that's when I really screwed up. I turned the boat to jibe the Genoa but then realized the winch I wanted to sheet in on had the furler line on it. So I undo the furler line thinking I can hold it as I move it to a different winch. I was wrong and about 1/3 of the sail got out before I finally wrestled the line onto a winch and started cranking. Well bottom line I flogged a 12"ripe in the Genoa just out side of the clew reinforcing. Now I'm back to bare poles doing 5.5kts and pretty disgusted with myself for not rolling the sail in before I jibed.
After 5 hours and a horrible night the winds started to back down and I was a exhausted and frustrated with the loss of the Genoa.
Day-29 was just good sailing in 25 kts of breeze and the seas were laying down but still to rough to make repairs.
Day-30 arrived with dying winds and I'm just 30 miles from the Horn.I drag the spinnaker on deck and hoist it.Now this is cool I'm going to round cape horn under spinnaker. No thats not what happened as I got head winds after 10 minutes. Now I'm beating into 25 kts from the NE and it appears that when I pass cape Horn I will be about 25 miles away. That's when the winds died down to about 10 kts.
I don't know if you could understand how I was feeling at this point but after 30-days and 3582 NM.I just want to get there. I try to start engine and end up starting an electrical fire in wiring to engine pre heater. Cut that in the clear;blow the smoke out of the boat. Now I bleed the engine and finaly it starts and now motor sailing at 7kts I'm going to get there. After 2 hours wind fills in from the north and I have a great beam reach to the horn arriving at 2130 UTC 1/9/09.
I had thought I was feeling emotional when I left Callao,Peru but that was nothing to the way I felt arriving here.Not only was I still alive but I had Fulfilled a dream;suddenly all the frustration was off me and I was happy again. I drank a Toast to Cape Horn,one to my wife Debbie and one to Dave on Sweet Loraine whose 50th Birthday it was. Hell I was thinking this toasting thing was pretty great. Then I remembered where I was and that there is still lots of weather and miles before I reach a safe Port.
Down here the winds are constantly changing in direction and intensity. 30* degree wind shifts are common and wind speed varies from light to 20-35kts all in a matter of hours and then back to light again;not like the steady trades. The good thing is if you don't like a particular wind speed or direction just wait 5 minutes. I have been on deck 6 times this morning making sail changes over a period of 2 hrs.
Buenos Aires here I come and would someone please turn up the heat.
Three wheels on my wagon and I'm Still sailing along.
PS.John on "White Hawk" I want you to get out there and find me that wheel barrel with an 8-ply tire to wheel "These Babies" around in.
Your Amigo Jeff
Cape Horn Adventure Days; 31-32-33
Stats:Day-31=125 NM.Weather:Sunny;wind.20-25kts.N.Seas:15-18ft.SW.Temp.51*-55*.Bar.1015mb up 13mb.Cr.75*Tr.
Stats:Day-32=119 NM.Weather:Sunny;Wind:10-30kts.N.Seas:10-12ft.NW.Temp.52*-55*.Bar.1015mb.Steady.Cr.44*Tr.
Stats:Day-33=124 NM.Weather:Sunny;Wind:15-25kts.N.Seas:6-8ft.N.Temp.54*-58*.Bar.1014mb.Down-1mb.Cr.68* Tr.
Total 3-day run =368NM, Current Position.Lat52* 44'S Long.57*03W Just south of Falkland Islands. Distance left Buenos Aires.As the Crow flys about 1200 mils. Only 11 "BEERS LEFT YIKES" Gotta Haul ass before I'm "on the wagon".
The Rest Of The Story.
First of all let me thank all of you for your congratulations and continued support on this passage.
Day-31 was pretty much just good sailing giving me the opportunity to put miles between me and the Horn. I'm operating under limited sail power until the Genny is patched and back up;fortunately winds were strong and on the beam and made decent mileage for the day. You see there is yet another huge low approaching promising up to 60 Kts of wind.
Day-32 I awake at 2:30AM;it is day light. Yes the days here are amazing;it gets dark at 11pm and starts getting light at 2AM.The calmness had woken me as there is much for me to do and the calm is what I need.A cup of coffee and I'm on deck pulling the torn Genny down of the furlling system."Yikes" it is worse then first thought. The tears are several possibly about 6ft.of total patches needed.
The swell although still large is in a uniform direction and the boat is ridding with a minimal amount of roll when dead down wind."Great I will fix the wind generator. I take my spare blade and pull my self up mizzen the mast. Upon arrival at the wind generator I notice that all three blades are broken. Oh "crap",I have but one blade and a pair of pliers with me. It had been hard to get up there and now nothing;HMMMMMMMMMM!Got an idea;I break the other two blades with the pliers so they are about the same length as the shortest one.Walla!!!it works great runs quieter and smoother than ever. Now it might not have the same power in light air but this "sucker" ought to really perform in 15-35kts.
Once back on deck it is obvious that I should jibe to sail the desired course. The winds are light and this is no big deal. While I'm adjusting the main sheet traveler stops the main jibed and "Bam the traveler slammed over almost all the way against the stop, all the way except that little bit of distance my finger on my right hand took up;"OUUUUUUCCCCCHHHH!!!!! I had almost pinched the end of my tall boy figure off;it doesn't look good. So I soak it in hydrogen peroxide and bandage it up all the time looking at that huge Genoa that is taking up a huge portion of my cabin space below. I'm thinking how am I going to hand sew that sail with this "dang hand".
Well 9 hours later the patch job is complete. I used about a half a quart of contact cement and did a triple layer glued and sewn patch as my repair material was only about 4-OZ weight and Genoa is 9-OZ. Nothing like the leisurely life of the Cruiser;yea these 19 hr. work days really knock you out,makes for good sleep if it would just get dark.
The 4-th place Vendee Globe race boat was in my area on this day.The boat is Roxy with Sam Davies on board from Great Britain but never seen or heard anything;I tried calling on the radio a few times but from what I understand they seldom have their radios on as they use telephones.I did see one ship off in the distance the other night,it looked like a cruise ship. That is the only traffic I have seen for over 26-days.
Day-33 It was about 9Am and I decided to put the Genoa back on. Its blowing about 18kts so I sail close hauled into the wind and once again I was missing Debbie as this is almost a two person job getting that thing fed into the foil while hoisting;it took a long time but at last it was up and we are back sailing all powered up.
The last thing left to do to put the boat right is retrieve the Staysail halyard. At 5:30Am the next morning I decide to go for the staysail halyard.I drop the main down as I will need to wrap my legs around the mast. Then hoist the mizzen to help stop rolling. Start the motor and motor into wind that is blowing 18 knots and seas 6-8ft. This is very difficult to do and more of a work out than anything "Jane Fonda "ever came up with. I use double safety lines and it takes an hour to get to the halyard;at one point when getting around spreaders the boat fell off a big wave and I had but one safety line connected to an upper shroud and my grasp on the mast is broken and out I go sailing past the shroud and at one point I think I'm doing a wing over as my feet are above my head. I swear the amount of stuff that flashes through your mind at a time like this is amazing. All to Soon it becomes real clear what comes next and that is reentry to the mast and shroud area and try not to get knocked out.I grab for a shroud to slow me down and next thing I know I'm snuggled once again to the mast hanging on for dear life as I have come nearly out of the boson's chair, well lets just say it is up to my arm pits and I have a much higher pitched voice. Finally I'm above the spreaders and retrieve the halyard. The trip down only took several minutes.
When ascending a mast with a three purchase block system like I use, you must contain the line in a bucket for fear of it getting fouled on deck and you trapped aloft. Well when I did my aerial act my line all dumped out of the bucket. Had it gone over the side and got to the prop I would have made the top of the mast in seconds only to be out done by my rapid free fall to the deck below. In hind site tape up all snap shackles as it really isn't that inconvenient.
Powered up and beating North.
Your Amigo Jeff
Cape Horn Adventure Days;34-35-36.
Stats"Day-34=107NM.Weather Foggy.Wind 10-20kts from North.Seas.6-8ft.N.Temp.53*-56*.Bar.1006 mb.dn.8mb.Cr.55*Tr.
Stats:Day-35=121 NM.Weather foggy.Wind.25kts NW-SW.Seas.8-10ft.NW-SW.Temp.54*-56*.Bar.1002mb.dn.4-mb..Cr.002*Tr.
Stats:Day 36=156NM.Weather:Sunny then stormy.Wind:30-40Kts.Gusting 50kts NW.Seas 18-20ftNW.Temp.58*-58*Cr.77*Tr.
Total miles 3-day run=394NM. Miles left to Buenos Aires=880NM. Current Position=Lat.48*39'S Long51*21'W
The Rest Of The Story.
Day-34 Was foggy and cold with 100% humidity and the wind was on the nose. I was beating and tacking my way up the East side of the Falkland Islands. I never got closer then 20-miles and visibility was about one mile so never seen the Islands;although looking at the chart would indicate many good anchorages there but "Cold an Foggy". I was feeling pretty drained and my muscles ached from the wrestling match up the mast the day before.I was also wondering how much the large cyclonic low might effect me as it swept across cape horn with winds figured to be gusting to 75knts.The barometer was on its way down big time.
Day-35 Winds continued to build now 30kts sustained gusting to 35kts and I'm sailing close hulled in very uncomfortable seas. Thank God or Bob Perry that this Baba Is built like a tank.
My fresh vegetables are dwindling down only 1/2 tomato remains but lots of onions and potatoes as well as cabbage. The 40-lb Tuna is still hanging in there and decided that I would try and catch another. That turned out to be a bad idea because all I caught was a small albatross. So will wait for more fish less birds. Just dying for some heat can't get north quick enough. Now I do have a great arctic Diesel heater but in rough seas and high winds it is just to great of liability to fire it up. If things settle down a bit I will fire it up and dry this wet boat out.
Day-35 started out real good sailing do north for several hours then winds went to NW 30-40 kts. I reefed down to staysail and double reefed mizzen and sailed as close to wind as possible in rapidly building seas.The wind was to become more favorable as the day wore on but that never happened. I carried on thru the night. In the am winds were gusting to 50 so I dropped staysail and hove to under double reefed Mizzen alone. If things continue to deteriorate the sea anchor is next.
The wind vane broke when hit by large wave breaking lower port support off; so no more wind vane this passage.
I'm ridding comfortably now doing 2-kts on a course of 75*.I'm waiting for the favorable wind shift hope it occurs soon.
Just Hanging out Your Amigo Jeff.
Cape Horn Adventure.Days; 37-38-39
Stats:Day37=101NM.Overcast.Wind NW.50kts.then West 25kts.Seas:18-20+ft.Temp.56*-59*.Bar.995mb.dn.7mb.Cr.350*Tr.
Stats:Day 38=148NM.Sunny.Wind:W.20-25kts.Seas 10-15ft.Temp.59*-60*.Bar.1015mb.up.20mb.Cr.345*Tr.
Stats:Day 39=118NM.Sunny WindWSW-20KTS.shifting NW.8-15kts.Seas4-6ft.Temp.63-65*.Bar.1020mb up 5mb.Cr.17*Tr.
Total 3-day run=367NM. Distance left to Buenos Aires=570 NM. Current Pos.0600 Lima Time.1/19/09.Lat.43*02'S Long.52*39'W Cr.17*Tr.
The Rest Of The Story.
Day 37 most likely will be remembered as the worst day of the passage.I was hove to under double reefed mizzen in sustained 50kts of NW wind.The mizzen held the bow of the boat at about45-50* of wind and waves. However after about 4 hours the waves were running in excess of 20ft.and knocking the bow off allowing several minutes to pass before "Sailors Run" would round back up. It was on one of these occasions that we were slammed by a second large breaking wave that broke the wind vane support strut. I secured all loose parts and stowed servo rudder up out of the way. Below decks things were caotic;water was getting in around port lights from force of waves that were breaking onto the decks.It was dark out and not a good time to try to set the sea Anchor.I would have went ahead and did it anyway as that would have made things much safer;But these winds had to be associated with a front and should subside soon. At last after one long nasty night. the winds abated; some 8 hours after they had begun. I pulled the staysail up and we were back underway on course no less. During that night I had been thinking South Africa might be my next port of call.
Day 38 The Sun is out and the winds are still on the beam and I roll out more sail;now romping along with large beam seas yet rounded enough to stay on. sun is out and my spirits are lifted although there has been little rest;Yes I might just make it after all.
It is after very trying times like these that I thank my mentor Clarence Plotts. His son being Paul Plotts the owner and skipper of the Schooner Dauntlas out of San Diego. Clarence was a teacher of sailing at the US Power Squadron,way back when I was in my early 20s and he took me under his wing and taught me not only sailing, seamanship and navigation but also how to race sailboats. I raced with him for three years on Pinochio A rhodes-29' that he had built himself. After 3 years we had wone our division and were within 3/10th of a point of being boat of the year. We had but 3-evening races to complete and we would win it all. The commodore of the yacht club called me and said Jeff you have to talk Clarence into racing those last three races and you guys will be boat of the year. If you don't the guy that will win is a real jerk.
Now I talked to Clarence about that and he said I don't care about being boat of the year and he said besides I'm getting ready to take Pinochio to the" Sanny Juan Islands" as he called them. Well that's how we left things. Clarence went on and raced until he was 90 years old. Me I had gotten tired of going around the buoys and much preferred voyaging under sail.
It was Thanksgiving some 20-years later and I was picking Clarence up to come to our Log Cabin for dinner as Debbie had invited him. I was standing in Clarence's Living room admiring his biggest trophy on the mantel of the fire place we had won that year winning the division Clarence was slipping on his sweater and I said; "this sure is a nice trophy you have here Clarence". Clarence kind of laughed and said yea and I won it with an all girl crew. Well I left it at that as that made for a better story any how. Clarence died at 93 years of age just one year after we had sailed Pinochio to Seattle to put her up for sale. I have never known a more honest strait forward person in my life;not to mention one "Hell of a great Sailor".
Day 39 It is finally warming up and the boat is drying out. I know it is warming up because all this dirty laundry is starting to "reek". The winds have shifted from being behind me to on the nose;well on the nose enough that I can't sail the course.
I have seen no ice not even a cube and for "Happy Feet" he must be bussing some place else.
Now I know I'm getting close as I have but 4-Beers left,so that's a good thing.
I also know Debbie is packing up in Albuquerque and will flying my way on the 27th. Her work is finished there and she is ready to party;she claims to have a "fist full of dollars".Well welcome back "Sweetie".
Just trying to get there.
Your Amigo Jeff
Cape Horn Adventure.Days:40-41-42.
Stats:Day-40=90 NM.Weather:Cloudy;Wind:30-35kts gusting45kts.NW.Seas12-15FT.NW.Temp.67-72*Bar.1015mb.dn.5mb.Cr.26*Tr.
Stats:Day-41=76 NM.Weather:Sunny;Wind:WSW-10 kts.ThenNW18-20kts.Seas.8-10ft.NW.Temp.74-76*Bar.1017mb.up.2mb.Cr.003*Tr.
Stats:Day-42=134NM.Weather:Sunny;Wind:NW.15-25kts.Seas:6-8ft.NW.Temp.75-78*.Bar.1020mb.up.3mb.Cr.009*TR.
Total 3-day run=300 NM. Distance left to Buenos Aires,Argentina=410 NM. Current Position=Lat.37*58'S Long.50*46'W.
The Rest Of The Story.
Day-40 another large low moves over southern South America and I get hit with a frontal system blowing 30-35 gusting 45Kts. for 8-hours.Wanting to get there I keep double reefed Mizzen and staysail up. Its a long night with little rest as the boat is pounding in steep waves, and it is all I can do to keep from Heaving to. When the wind finally abates I'm able to steer the course but something seems drastically wrong. The boat seems to be moving fast but I'm seeing but 3kts. on the Gps. A quick check on the pilot charts and guess what here we have the Brazilian Current. Normally it is but 1-kt. but because of big NW winds it is now 3-kts.and my mileage for the day shows it.
Day-41 I'm still in the current and don't break free untill late in this 24-hr.Run. So yet another slow day. The weather has become very warm and the sun is out as are the stars at night. I had fun watching the green flash as I seen it 3-times as I bounced up and down on the waves. Just a little info on Buenos Aires, Argentina;it is the 9th largest City in the world and over 1/3rd of Argentina's 39-million People live there in a city that covers 75-square miles. An interesting and challenging feature for me is that you don't just sail up the coast of South America and drop in on this city. Buenos Aires is some 200 miles up an estuary that is called Rio De Plata."river of silver".The water is about 20ft deep most of the way except in a dredged and buoyed channel. There are approximately 50- ship wrecks in this estuary and ex stream caution must be taken to avoid them. There is also a high speed Ferry system that runs out of the channel. So it appears that this trip won't be lacking for adventure or challenges until I tie up at the dock in Marina Argentino and jump off and "Kiss The Bloody Land".
Day-42 Sailors Run beats to weather in NW.winds unable to sail the course. I'm left no choice but to sail north on port tack until fetching Latitude 46* at which I can tack and be reasonably assured of sailing directly to Buenos Aires. Winds are predicted to go NNE within the next 24 hrs "YEA".The winds off the mouth of Rio De Plata appear to be in the 30KT.range and I will hopefuly have them on my beam or aft of the beam making the sail tolerable. Once into the Estuary I will be living in the cockpit as a constant watch must be maintained.
I had hopped for a 38 day passage;Thor said 42-days,and now it looks like it is back to my first guess 45 days Hmmmmmmm,What I have learned so far on this voyage is I shouldn't have drank those "4-Beers" before leaving.
Just a "little thirsty" your Amigo Jeff
Cape Horn Adventure;Days: 43-44-45.
Stats:Day-43=108NM.Weather:Wind:WNW-15kts.then,N-8kts.Seas:6-8ft.NW.Temp.75-79*.Bar1024mb.up.4mb.Cr.299*.Tr.
Stats:Day-44=142NM.Weather:Wind:25-30Kts.NNW.Then.NNE 25-30kts.Seas 10-15ft.N.Temp.75-79*.Bar.1019mb.dn.5mb.Cr.291*.Tr.
Stats:Day-45=136NM.Weather 30ktsNNE wind then no wind.Seas 6ft.Temp 74-80* Bar.1012mb.dn.7mb.Anchored.
Total 3-day run=386NM. Distance left to goto Buenos Aires=63NM. Current Position 0600,Lima 1/25/09 Lat.35*01'SLong57*15W.
The Rest Of The Story.
Day-43 Was a nice easy sailing and the course you could steer. Sunny and warm.Yahoooo!
Day 44 became a very large challenge as the wind went NNW and all I could do was sail NNE and the winds were kicking25-30kts.It was late in the afternoon of this day that the winds went NNE and at last I could once again lay Buenos Aires. The problem was the winds were 30 kts on the beam and the seas steep at times. I was truly torn about getting there and pounding the boat to much. It is amazing the things that you think about;"Worry".Here I am getting very close then loose the mast or something like that so eventually I reef it down to almost no sails and we still go to fast,but less strain on the rig. It was a long sleepless night and several waves broke on the "Sailors Run".Shifting the hard dingy around a bit on deck and forcing a small spatering of water below decks. I believe it is getting harder for me to endure these harsh sailing conditions and will be really happy to at last get there.
Day-45 starts as a great day sailing rapidly towards Buenos Aires. I'm very tired and have been up for 3-days and two nights. It had become apparent that to get to the marina before closing on Sunday the 25th I would have to maintain 6-knots. This was a doable plan. Then while running motor to get that extra knot the engine suddenly seized. I was in shock I checked the oil which I had just added oil about 5-hrs of running ago and it was showing zero oil on dip stick. Its a long story but in bahia Caraquese Ecuador I had the dip stick tube welded after it had broke. It appears that when it was fixed the welder had cut about one inch off of the tube;therefore giving me erroneous readings and I came up short.
I find my self feeling terrible as not only is this a big expense but I'm here where I have never been before and haven't even gotten to the marina. I'm trying to sleep in a rather exposed anchorage waiting for wind to fill in so I can sail to the Marina that has recently told us they weren't sure they had a slip for me.So that makes it even worse as I need a dock for sure.
So once again it isn't over until its over.
Your Amigo Jeff
Cape Horn Adventure The Last 10-hrs. "King Neptune Makes Goal Line Stand"
Stats:Last 10hrs.=63 miles.Weather winds SE.25-30Kts.Temp.80* Bar.Not Sure quit looking.Seas:steep 6-8ft.Cr Buenos Aires.
Total Distance of Passage=5,629NM.
Fuel consumption 40-gallons;Total fuel Mileage 142 miles per gallon;eat your heart out Toyota!!
Current Position:Lat.34*35'S long.59*21'W. Yacht Club Argentino.
The End To The Rest Of The Story.
In total despair,becalmed and forced to anchor in the Rio De La Plata. There was little I could do but try to sleep. Over a period of 10-1/2 hrs. I possibly slept for 6-hrs;very much needed. I had began a very deep sleep,and never awakened until about 4:30 Pm Buenos Aires Time and wind was already up to 25kts from SE.My location is about 3500 NM do west of the Cape of Good Hope.The potential for large waves from all that fetch was huge. I must leave immediately,as these winds will drive me to Buenos Aires. I hoisted the Mizzen to relieve strain on anchor road,but already seas are steep and 5ft.
Going forward to attempt to pull anchor turns into one of those situations that you realize with out a motor is not going to happen. I started hauling chain but with the bow dipping below the waves and me becoming engulfed in the wave to the point I'm drinking the Muddy water. I abandon the effort of retrieving anchor and road. Opting not to become engird or tear the the windless from the boat; I tie floats to road and slip it."Wow"there goes another couple grand. Soon I'm sailing along with double reffed mizzen and a tiny bit of Genoa rolled out. The wind is up to 30kts sustained and I'm seein 9-kts at times.
All the time I have been in constant email contact with Debbie and she has been burning up the phone lines between her and Club Argentino to Advise them I'm coming as they close the entrance often to keep river flotsam out. I estimate arrival there at 1AM. It becomes dark and there is no moon. The water is continually getting shallower as I get closer to my destination. Upon arrival to the mouth of this river I discovered my depth meter had decided to no longer work. I made up a lead line. There are dredged channels but they are no more than 300ft. wide and the ship traffic is ever present in these channels. The last 25 miles Im forced to sail in the channels with 6-8ft steep waves making maintaining a tight course under auto pilot very Challenging. I pass two very large ships coming down the channel towards me and the wake from the ship plus the sea that is running nearly drives me into one of the channel Markers. I would take over the helm during these passing of the large vessels. I was also over taken by a ship and was hugging the edge of the channel as he squeaked by. Several very large ferries also used the channel;I must say that between trying to avoid channel markers some that were unlit and all these large vessels was just all I could do.
Upon Arrival at at Club Argentino I had up only the Mizzen as it helps hold bow into the wind when anchoring and I was still doing over 6-kts. Never having been here before I knew I would get but one shot at the entrance. I finally round the last curve and spot the red light on the entrance. Guess what the entrance is closed.
I was forced to anchor in a main shipping turn around by some commercial piers with my secondary chain and nylon rode and a small 22# danforth.Once anchor down I tidy up the boat and go below to try once again to sleep. Before long I hear hollering outside. It is some one from the yacht club in a Launch."Thank God They Have Come For Me".I pull my anchor rode up by hand as the launch poles Sailors Run forward easing the strain on Anchor road. I'm feeling great pain in my left hand. It seems that in my hurry trying to be in three places` at once I had taken a fall on the deck striking my left hand on the Sampson post.
Once inside the Yacht Club I'm moored between two moorings and feel safe at last. At 1:30 Am I go to bed but sleep little as hand is throbbing like crazy. I get up and splint my hand,still not sure if it is broken ,fractured or possibly a bee sting. I have developed a bit of a reaction to bee stings and while anchored on the river was swarmed by many black wasps. One of them had stung my small finger and it didn't seem to bad. It was during the Chinese fire drill on deck that I was getting anchor rode pulled out and could have been stung once again where my hand feels broken. Bottom line keeping it splinted and hoping it is a sting and goes away.
My brother in law Jim told me before I left on this Adventure, he said yes you will make it but your going to get a little beat up. He was very right about that.
I want to thank all of you out there for your great moral support in this Adventure and there has been much help and good advise to help me deal with the crises that have arisen. This has been very emotional and trying time for me,and I must give a special thanks for the encouragement that came to me from Willy on the Yacht Pazo.it was when I had that last 63 miles to go he said: your almost there "JUST KICK ITS FUCKING ASS",and I did. "Thanks Willy" you knew where I was at.
Now Debbie will arrive in 2-days Yahooooo!!!and I have already started arrangements for re powering,nothing set in concrete yet but moving ahead none the less.
Buenos Aires appears to be an awesome place and the check in was 6 dollars and I understand you can stay up to 8-years if you can believe what a local guy told me that works at the Yacht Club.
At Rest Your Amigo Jeff